I'm full of beans – borlotti, french and runners mainly. As I write, they tumble and twine around pyramids ofpoles in leafy, poddy abundance. At this time ofyear, the early evening often findsme out there with a colander gathering a few handfuls of crisp, green – or, in the case of the borlottis, scarlet-splashed – pods for dinner.
Beans are hugely rewarding to grow. They're fairly undemanding and look wonderful in the vegetable garden – so much so that some were originally grown as ornamentals. And even ifyou don't have aveg plot, they cancertainly hold their own in the flowerbed, twirling their way up canes or trellises.
When it comes to french beans, Igrow sweet, skinny Blue Lake Climbing, reliable and undemanding Eva, lovely purple Violetta, and Roquencourt, a dwarf variety with pretty, pale yellow pods.
As for runners, I'm fond of that old favourite Scarlet Emperor. It'sagood cropper and produces smooth pods of up to 30cm, though they can be stringy if you let them get too big. I also grow Polestar, which has great flavour and is fairly string-less as long as you pick them early enough.
And then there are the borlottis. AsGerard Manley Hopkins (nearly) said, "Glory be to God for dappled beans." Yellow-green pods speckled with red hang elegantly from the vines; when opened, they reveal pretty, creamy-coloured, pink-flecked beans. Pied Beauty indeed. Unfortunately, the speckles disappear on cooking, but they're so delicious we won't hold that against them. Wegrow Lingua di Fuoco, which I've found one of the easiest and most reliable in our climate.
All beans like fertile, well-drained soil in a sunny spot sheltered from the wind. Dig in plenty of well-rotted manure before planting and water well once they begin to flower. And don't forget to mulch the soil around them to help maintain the moisture, too. You can also grow beans in large pots, but make sure they have plenty of drainage holes. They'll need support, so make a wigwam with 2.4m canes tied together at the top with string.
Next spring, start your beans off in8cm pots indoors, sowing each seed 4cm deep. Harden them off for afew days in a cool greenhouse and then, once all chance of frost has passed (mid-May), plant them out about 20cm apart. As for pests, planting marigolds near your beans will help deter aphids, and keep akeen eye out for slugs and snails – they seem to love beans as much asany of us, especially when the plants are young and tender and struggling to get away.
When it comes to cooking them, french beans are the fast food of theleguminous world. Boil in salted water for three or four minutes until just tender. If you're using them cold in a salad, refresh them under the cold tap to stop them cooking further, then dress. They can take all kinds of dressings, from a simple, lemony vinaigrette toa more adventurous oriental-style dressing of soy sauce, toasted sesame oil and mirin.
You may need to string runner beans before you cook them – simply run a veg peeler along the sides to remove the strings – then simmer for about 15 minutes until tender. They're delicious served simply with butter andflaky sea salt, but their texture means they take on the flavours ofthings cooked around them (seetoday's recipe), so they're greatin soups and stews, too. And young, finger-wide runners are delicious raw as crudités.
As for borlottis, cook them until they're tender in gently simmering water into which you have tossed abouquet garni – how long this takes depends on how fresh they are, so start testing them after 25minutes. Drain and toss in good olive oil with a squeeze of lemon orasplash of apple balsamic vinegar. Or add themto gutsy soups. And any you don't eat this summer can be dried to feed your borlotti habit over the winter. In early autumn, cut the plant and hang itupside down in a well-ventilated place until the pods are very dry. Shell the beans and let them dry out for a few more days before sealing them in airtight jars.
French beans with feta, walnuts and mint (V)
This simple, tasty salad works with runner beans, too. Serves two to four.
280g french beans, trimmed
3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
Juice of ½ small lemon
Small handful of mint leaves, tough stalks removed, and chopped
1 small handful dill, tough stalks removed, half the fronds chopped, the rest reserved to garnish the dish
Flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
150g feta
50g walnuts, toasted and roughly chopped
Bring a pan of salted water to the boil and cook the beans until just tender, about three to six minutes, then drain and refresh in cold water. Dress the beans in the olive oil, lemon juice, mint, some of the dill, salt and pepper. Serve topped with crumbled feta cheese, walnuts and the remaining dill fronds scattered over the top.
Fresh borlotti beans with onion and garlic (V)
These are good hot, warm or at room temperature. Serves three to four.
400g fresh borlotti beans (shelledweight)
1 bouquet garni, comprising 1 bay leaf, 1 sprig thyme, 3 parsley stalks
30g butter
2 onions, halved and thinly sliced
1 leek, halved and thinly sliced
6 garlic cloves, unpeeled but bashed to break the skin
6 small, fresh bay leaves
1 sprig fresh thyme
¼-½ tsp chilli flakes, or to taste
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
About 12 sage leaves, finely chopped
A small bunch of parsley, tough stalks removed and finely chopped
Juice of ½ lemon
2-3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
Put the beans in a saucepan with the bouquet garni and enough water to cover by about 5cm. Bring to asimmer and then cook until tender when pressedwith a fork – how long this will takedepends on how fresh thebeansare. Allow 25-40 minutes.
While the beans are cooking, meltthe butter in a large frying panover a medium-low heat and sauté the onions and leek with thegarlic, bay leaves, thyme, chilli flakes and salt and pepper until theonions are soft and beginning tocaramelise. This should take about 25 minutes.
Drain the beans and add them to the onion mix. Cook, stirring from time to time, for about 10 minutes. Add the sage and parsley, season and give everything a good stir. Squeeze over the lemon juice and trickle on the olive oil.
Runner beans with tomatoes (V)
This simple side dish serves four.
3 tbsp olive oil
2 red onions, diced
1 bay leaf
3 garlic cloves, finely sliced
500g runner beans, strings removed and cut diagonally into 3cm pieces
350g cherry tomatoes
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
500ml vegetable or chicken stock
2 tbsp finely chopped oregano
1 small handful fresh parsley, tough stalks removed, and finely chopped
Warm the oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat, add the onions and bay leaf and fry, stirring from time to time, until the onions are soft – about five minutes.
Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for afurtherminute, then add the beansand tomatoes, season well, and cook and stir for a couple of minutes. Pour in the stock, add the oregano, bring to a boil, lower the heat and simmer uncovered until the beans are tender and most of theliquid has thickened into asauce– 20-25 minutes.
Stir in the parsley and season. Serve hot or warm.
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